What is a bog filter
A bog filter uses the natural cycle of the pond ecosystem to maintain balance keeping the water quality high. Ponds with bog filters rarely experience algae blooms. When set up correctly this type of filtration is high quality and low maintenance. Let mother nature do the heavy lifting as she has since the beginning.
How does a bog filter work
I know the claims may sound too good to be true. Superior water quality and beautiful blooming plants. The best of both worlds in one. By creating a balanced ecosystem that is exactly what you get.
The layout is nothing more than a grid work of pvc pipes that evenly delivers nutrient rich water to a gravel bed. The bacteria that colonizes in that gravel bed nitrify the nutrients (organic waste) in the water, turning it into plant food. This is then absorbed and used by the plants in the bog. What’s left is crystal clear water stripped of its nutrients and returned to the pond.
The most important thing to get right when setting up a bog filtration system is to size it properly. This is done by based on the size of the pond. The bog should be 15 - 30 percent of the surface area of the pond to be filtered.
Let's say we decide we need a bog to be 20 percent of the surface area of the pond based on our needs. A pond that is 10 feet wide by 15 feet long has a surface area of 150 square feet. This pond would require a bog that is 30 square feet, 6 feet by 5 feet by 12 inches deep.
Oversizing the bog is ok if you have the room for it. This will only help for future needs and be more forgiving if the pond happens to get overstocked.
Clearing Your Pond Naturally
The gravel bog filtrations effectiveness is unmatched. No chemicals, special equipment and extremely low maintenance.
One of the major things that plague every pond owner is algae. This comes in two forms, string algae and free floating algae. Both will take over your pond if not tended to. A UV light is typically installed to help combat this. This is not necessary with a bog filter.
Algae needs three things to live: sunlight, nutrients, and water. If one of these is missing it cannot survive. The bog filter strips the nutrients from the water before it returns to the pond. This in turn starves the algae. What’s left is crystal clear natural, chemically free water.
How To Set Up A Bog Filter
Two things need to be considered when designing and planning out your bog filter. Number one is water flow, and the second is size. Get these two things right and you are set up for years of low maintenance and high enjoyment.
Water Flow - The ideal water flow through the system is once per hour. If you have a 1500 gallon pond, then the ideal flow rate through your bog would require a pump capable of at least 1,500 gph (gallons per hour). This is a key to get right.
Moving the water through the bog too quickly will not allow the bacteria to use up all the nutrients. If the water flow is too slow, you run the risk of stagnation. You may wind up with pockets where the water doesn’t move.
Size - The size of your bog filter will depend on its use, although it never hurts to make it bigger than you may initially need. If you are creating a water garden only, with plants and maybe a couple of goldfish, you can easily get away with a bog that is 10 to 15 percent of the size of the pond.
Stocking koi you will need to increase the size of the bog to 30 percent of the size of the pond.
Design
Now let’s get down to business and discuss exactly how to build one of these amazing, yet simple water clarifying systems.
First excavate the area where the bog will be located to a depth of 12 inches (30.48cm). Follow the same steps for laying down underlayment and pond liner as you would when building a pond. Now we will be using a system of pvc pipes that connect to our waterfall pump to distribute the water evenly throughout the bog.
Use 1 ½” to 2” inch diameter pvc pipe to create a water distribution channel below the bog. To determine what pipe to use, look at the size of the output on your pump. Use the next size bigger pvc pipe for your system. For example if your pump has a 1 inch outlet, use 1 ½ inch pvc in your bog. Doing this will ensure proper flow through your system.
When we build a bog filter, instead of perforating the pvc pipe with holes like many others do, cut ⅛” wide slots using a circular saw set at a 3⁄4” depth. This gives a uniform outlet throughout the pipe. Space cuts about 3 inches apart for the length of the run.
Each “leg” of pipe will cover a 2 - 3 foot width. For instance a bog that is 6 foot wide and 10 feet long will need 2 lengths of pipe to run the 10 foot length. The legs of the filter should all tie together. Place a vertical pipe at the opposite end of the inlet. The vertical pipe should come slightly above the surface of the bog. This will allow you to flush the system when necessary. This is know as the clean-out. See the figure below.
Once all your piping is in place, cover it with the ⅜" pea gravel. Cover the pipes with about 3 - 4 inches of pea gravel. This will be the home of the bacteria that will turn waste into plant food. Now that the pipes are covered you are ready to plant your bog plants (skip to planting bog plants).
The Clean-Out
Do not neglect adding this to your water distribution pipes. The clean-out is simply the other end of the pvc “leg” that ties them all together. This must be capped off in order for water to flow properly.
I suggest using a threaded plug to plug the clean-out to ensure it stays in place. The clean-out should raise up just above the surface of the bog. The pipe can easily be hidden with some dark brown or black spry paint.
Any leg that is not connected to the clean-out needs to be capped off. Water follows the path of least resistance, any pipe left uncapped will release the water on the end rather than through the slots in the pipe.
How Deep Should A Bog Filter Be
Your bog filter should be no deeper than 12 inches deep. Ideally the bog and the pond will be built using the same piece of liner to reduce the likelihood of leaks. Any deeper is a waste and unnecessary.
Effectiveness Of A Bog Filter
Your pond is always trying to reach a state of equilibrium. Just like water seeks its own level, the same holds true with your pond. Since it is a “man made” ecosystem and not naturally occurring, steps must be taken to ensure it can reach that state of balance. The point where, whatever goes in, equal parts must come out.
How much does it cost to set up a bog filter
The materials you will need to build your bog filter besides the standard pond kit items are as follows:
Bog Gravel Filter Materials List
- PVC pipe and fillings
- ⅜ inch pea gravel
- Variety of bog plants
As you can see based on the materials, the cost of a bog filter is relatively inexpensive when compared to other “high end” filtration systems. The amount of pipe and gravel needed is determined by the size bog that is required.
Space is the major expense, you need plenty of surface area for your bog to work properly. When it’s done right, no other system can top the bog filter.
How to incorporate a bog filter in your water feature
Whether you are planning on upgrading your current pond, or building a pond from scratch, keep these things in mind.
Pump Placement - The placement of your pond pump needs to be considered when using a bog filter. If you are building your pond from scratch you could opt to place your pump deep in the pond opposite of the bog.
If building a pond using a pond kit the pump will be placed in the skimmer box opposite the bog.
Most pond skimmers come with a net to catch large debris, then the water passes through a pre-filter pad. We do recommend using a skimmer to collect debris as it enters the water surface. However, do not use the pre filter pad in the skimmer box. The pre-filter will not allow as many nutrients to pass into the bog and will starve your plants.
There is more than one way to set up a bog filtration system. They seamlessly blend into the landscape because of the lush plants that are the result of the filtering.
Above the pond - The most typical way we build our bogs is above the pond. The water is filtered through the bog then returned to the pond through a spout, or a waterfall. This creates a wonderful sound and gives life to the water feature.
Beside the pond - The bog and the pond are separated by a porous retaining wall. Cinder blocks are perfect for this. Paint them black and cap them with natural stone. You will never know they are there.
Inside the pond - This is nothing more than a container that raises above the surface of the pond containing bog plants. keep their "feet" wet and they will clear your water. Perfect for smaller ponds on the deck or patio.
Planting Your Bog Filter
Before we go over what plants to start with in your bog filter, keep in mind that your bog is new. If you remove the dirt from your plants when you plant them they will starve.
Place all your plants where you want them to be planted, about one every square foot. Once you are satisfied with their look and location, remove them from their pots keeping the dirt around the roots. Don't worry about dirt getting into your pond.
With all the plants in place fill the remainder of the space with more ⅜” pea gravel. Turn on your pump and let mother nature take over.
Be sure to use the right kinds of plants, as some are invasive. They can take over, choking out other plants and clogging your pvc pipes. Any varieties from the list below will suit you just fine.
There is no shortage of the variety of plants available to fill your new bog with. Quick design note: keep tall species in the back and smaller, shorter plants in the front.
Below is a short list of bog plants we recommend to get you started. These plants are not invasive and will be a great fit to any bog gravel filtration system.
Bog Plants To Get You Started
Don’t limit yourself to our list. This is just to get you started and headed in the right direction. Experiment, see what suits your taste. We do suggest staying away from cattails, horsetail, and yellow iris. While these plants will do well in a bog, they are invasive and will take over.
Bog Filter Maintenance
The maintenance of a bog filter is minimal, but it still needs to be tended to on occasion. Here is a “heads Up” for what you can expect to keep everything running smoothly.
Seasonally - In the fall it is a good time to cut back your thriving bog plants. Don't be afraid to thin them out a bit. Transplant what you can. You may even be able to sell some of your healthy plants.
Monthly - its a good idea to pull the plug on your clean out once every month or so, just to “blow out” any debris that may have collected in the system. Remove the cap on your clean-out and run your pump for a few minutes. Doing this will ensure even water flow through the system.
Key Takeaways To Build An Effective Bog Filter
- Only use ⅜" pea gravel
- Bog depth is no more than 12 inches
- Cap all end pipes
- Include a clean-out
- Turnover rate should be once per hour
- Keep the soil on your bog plants when planting them
Conclusion
So there you have it! A simple system that will eliminate the need for chemicals, and lots of other equipment. Put it in the hands of mother nature. Enjoy crystal clear water all year round.
Let your pond be what it was born to be, a well balanced ecosystem that will provide you with years of enjoyment and relaxation. I would love to hear your experiences with bog filters. If you have any tips not mentioned above we would love to hear about them. Please leave a comment below to share with others. Until next time enjoy your backyard water garden!
~Jeff
When you say the bog area should be 30% of the pond area , do you mean cubic feet or surface area.
Also when you say the water should circulate once per hour do you mean the pond or the bog?
Terry,
When talking about the bog to pond ratio. The bog should be 30% of the ponds surface area. The water in your pond circulates through the bog and is then returned to the pond. Size your pump large enough to move all the water in your pond about once per hour if possible.
Dear Jeff
I’m thinking of building a bog filter for my new turtle outdoors pond . I have both choices of using gravel from the beach or lava stone
I leave in Santorini Greece , a volcanic island and I have abundance on both of these materials at all sizes and it’s also free to collect and use .
Which one would be more effective?
The harder gravel or the porous lava stones ?
Thank you
Yiannis,
That’s a fantastic idea. Especially if you have an abundance of free materials to use. I have to say, I’m a bit jealous 😉
If I had to choose between gravel from the beach or lava stone, I would use the lava stone. The main reason being the crevices and empty spaces create more surface area for beneficial bacteria to live and go to work breaking down the organic waste.
Be patient when you build your bog filter. It may take a season or so until the plants have become large enough to balance your pond and reach a state of equilibrium. A bog filter is by far the most natural and effective way to keep your water quality high.
What types of turtles are you planning to keep in your new pond?
Best of luck with your project. I would love to see pictures when you are done.
Cheers,
~Jeff
Dear Jeff
Thank you so much for your reply. I truly appreciate it .
Most my turtles are the “ Red Eared Slider”
I love their charactersundefined attitude. They are fun to interact with them , especially when it comes to feeding them .
Today ( 5undefined12undefined2020 ) is the first day I will start works on the turtle pond with the bog filter .
Of course I will send you some pics once completed.
I have two more questions and I count on your knowledge for these answers
1. Would it be ok to have the depth of the bog filer deeper than 12”-15”?
I mean like 20”
My thinking is that if I make it a bit deeper it would allow me to incorporate more lava rocks which ,in time ,means more bedding for my plants , more nutrients and probably longer time before cleaning is needed
2. I’m considering the bog filter to be inside the pond . Aesthetically, it would look much nicer I think .
My question is this
How much higher from the pond’s water surface do I need the bog’s filter water surface?
I’m asking this because once project is completed I would love to see the bog filter water heights to be as close as possible with the pond’s water height
Sorry if I maybe asking to much from you but these moments are important to have a proper guidance from an expert as you are Jeff .
Thank you , thank you in advance
Yiannis
Yiannis,
First of all, I apologize for the delayed response. To answer your questions: #1 making your bog deeper than 12 inches will not improve the time that goes between “cleanings”. If your bog is set up correctly the amount of cleaning that needs to be done will be very minimal.
You will however need to thin out your bog plants from time to time. This will keep balance to your system. If you make your bog too deep, you run the risk of having stagnant water. This will do more harm than good.
#2. The surface of your bog only needs to be slightly higher than the surface of your pond. This way water will flow from the bog to the pond. You can build the bog in the pond and make it all look as one. Keep the bog and the pond separated using stone or some other similar material.
Once your bog plants begin to flourish it will be difficult to see where the surface of the bog actually is. I would suggest having your bog 12 inches higher to ensure all the water gets circulated from the pond to the bog, then back to the pond.
I hope this was helpful, and please if you have any other questions do not hesitate to ask!
Cheers
~Jeff
Dear Jeff
Thank you for supporting me on this
Truly appreciate it
So far I have finished digging the pond and bog filter which I’ll now alter its depth from its current 15,7” back to 12” since you strongly recommend not to be much deeper than that
Next stage is to start working on the waterfall area
Since you allow me couple more questions I have two more that I’ll need your expertise
#1
For the bog’s filter overflow I’m thinking to
lower for just 0,2” a small part of bog’s filter wall ( 2 to 3 feet in length) so the water overflows back to pond
Is this the proper way of doing it ?
Shall I lower it a bit more maybe?
#2
Do you recommend using two smaller pumps ( one for the bog filter and the other for the waterfall )
Or just one bigger pump supporting both features ?
Thank you so much
You’re awesome
Dear Jeff
Following up to my previous reply
It is 4” the height difference between
bog’s water surface to pond’s water surface
Is this good enough?
Thanks agin
Yiannis,
It sounds like you have the return from the bog back into the pond set up perfectly. The 4” height difference will be enough for the water to flow from the bog to the pond as it should.
You are building a bog and a separate waterfall? I am just trying to understand and picture what you are doing. Is your waterfall part of your bog or something completely separate?
As far as pumps go, as long as you have a pump that can turn your water over about once every hour in the bog you will be good. You may be able to accomplish this with one pump using valves and pvc pipe to divert water to two different locations.
One or two pumps is up to you. Whatever makes the most sense for your configuration. I am not sure about your climate, but if you experience any kind of winter where the water may freeze you will want to have complete control over your system.
The most important thing is to keep water flowing through your bog at a rate of at least once per hour if possible. If your bog is 1000 gallons then a pump capable of 1200 GPH will be enough (don’t forget to take into consideration head height) here is an article on choosing the right pump explaining that.
Can’t wait to see the finished project!
Cheers,
~Jeff
Just read your write up on bog filters really good, my question is would it work with the inlet coming of a waterfall via a pump
Wayne,
An inlet from a waterfall will still work, just not as effectively. By forcing the water from the pond through your bog via the pvc pipe you are exposing it to the maximum amount of beneficial bacteria. Simply having water flow through your bog from a waterfall will still work to some extent. You will just not get the full benefit of having a bog if you set it up this way.
Cheers,
~Jeff
Hi,
I converted a galvanized steel stock trough into a turtle pond with goldfish. It is pumped into an adjoining raised bog filter in a 55 gal plastic drum cut length wise and lying on its side. The bog is filled with lava and pond rock around the pvc feeder on the bottom and mixed sized pea gravel on top of that. I needed to buy more gravel and when I went I saw that chopped rubber mulch. I was thinking if mixed in with the pea gravel it would make a great substrate to hold beneficial bacteria. Any thoughts?
I don’t know much about rubber mulch. After doing some research I found this paper… https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/rubber-mulch.pdf This is a quote from that article “Current research at Bucknell University indicates that rubber leachate from car tires can kill entire aquatic communities of algae, zooplankton, snails, and fish”.
Because of this I would stay clear of rubber mulch. It is better to be safe than sorry. Stay with what works. Thank you for the great question. Learn something new everyday!
Cheer,
~Jeff
Hi Jeff, I just found your bog filter building info today. I want to thank you so much for this, made my day! I have been researching several youtube scenarios in hopes my brain would figure out what feels right for my pond and property. There are not many pond supply stores near me, but many many ponds around. Probably too expensive in SoCal to operate a store.
I wish you lived closer, would like to have you over for your opinions and suggestions. There is a nursery in Texas that I found on youtube, yours is similar but easier and more informative for me to follow.
My 2500 gal KOI pond was installed 2005 by a pond contractor that at least gave me a nice hole, large waterfall, and alot of granite rock. For those things, I appreciated him. Everything he left out or undone made me learn and appreciate building my pond into what is today and the enjoyment it provides us. Now, its time for a plant bog up above my pond to help with some algae and water clarity. Connecting the bog to my waterfall collector is the only thing I struggle with (a little) but think I have a plan.
Best regards!
Steve
Steve,
Sounds like you know how you’re going to tackle this project. Glad I could be of some help. Are you going to be building your bog as a separate water flow from your current waterfall configuration? In other words, you aren’t going to get rid of your waterfall, you just plan on adding a bog filter separately right?
The benefits of a bog filter are two fold, clear water without chemicals, and beautiful healthy plants. Although a bog filter is a low maintenance system, it will still need attention once or twice a year to keep it running effectively. Be sure to include clean outs when you build, and you should be fine.
I would love to see pictures of your bog when you’re finished. Best of luck to you!
Cheers,
~Jeff
Interesting read. My pond is somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 acre. I just bought the property and I would like to have a Bog filter for it, but seems that to give 30% coverage, it would have to be a substantial size. Is there different guidance for a pond the size of mine. Its in upstate New York, is primarily spring fed, with rain run off. 8' deep in center and about 1' deep at the edges. it has a healthy growth of water lilies, but maybe too much milfoil in the deeper water. It is well populated with fish, frogs, turtles, etc. Looking forward to reading your thoughts.
Sounds to me like you have an ideal situation. A bog filter is used to emulate what you have naturally. Your pond is spring fed introducing fresh water into the system. The problem with man made ponds is they lack the balanced ecosystem you already have.
May I ask why you want to add a bog filtration system? What issues are you having, cloudy water or algae growth? Use the old saying if it isn’t broken, don’t try to fix it,
If you aren’t having any issues with your pond, enjoy it. Add some bog plants to the shallower areas if it suits you. Keep in mind some species of bog plants grow and spread at an alarming rate.
From what you told me you already have what we are all trying to create. If you aren’t having issues, adding a bog filtration system to your natural pond doesn’t seem necessary. Hope this was helpful.
Cheers,
~Jeff
I have no idea how long ago you posted this article, but I love the simplicity of it. I have a very small front yard that needs a facelift from mossy grass often seen here in the Pacific Northwest. I've convinced my wife to have a series of small ponds linked together, creating a landscape of rock, a few low-profile trees, and assorted bushes, grasses, flowers, and groundcover. At the moment we l have a small waterfall flowing into a small 120-gallon pond that is planted and home to 4 thriving comet goldfish. This pond has no drain. It utilizes a small, submerged box filter. I want to add 2 or three more ponds and one of them I think is perfect to set up a bog. It is 10 feet long, 4 foot wide at its widest, and 1 foot deep. I'm guessing I'll need pumps in each pond to pump water along to the bog. I wanted to elevate one pond so as to have it not all look linear and flat and give some feature to the yard. So, I guess my question is this. Would it be a simple process to link several ponds together and have a large single bog service the water for them all? Additionally, I should add that these ponds I have are hard-shell ponds and will be lowered into the ground after I lay padding.
Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Not sure if I am envisioning exactly what you are describing, but I would place the bog at a slightly higher elevation than the other two ponds. Then you could cascade water from the bog to one pond and then down again to the next. You would only need one pump at the lowest pond to return the water to the bog.
One more thing to consider is how you will flow water from one hard shell pond to the next. This could be tricky unless you overlapped them. Even still you would need to make sure water is not splashing out.
I believe that one bog would service the two small ponds. If you place your ponds at different elevations gravity will do the work of keeping the water flowing and you will only need one pump.
I wish you luck with your project and would love to see pictures of it when you’re finished.
Cheers,
~Jeff
Hi Jeff what an awesome article and I’m setting up my bag exactly as you taught. My question is when I plant these plants I still have 6 inches of water above the pew gravel. do I fill that 6 inches of space of water with more Pea gravel?
Or simply have the 6” of pea gravel with plants planted under water until they grow up?
The pea gravel substrate should not be deeper than 12″. Sounds like you still have room to add more gravel if you are only at 6 inches now. Your gravel level should be slightly above the water level.
Hey Jeff, I had an approximately 1500 gallon pond installed this spring. I am ONLY running a waterfall and a UV at the moment. The UV seems useless IMO as I definitely still have algae growth (it is in full sun most of the day). Plant coverage is about 40% or so. I am dying to add a bog filter. Using the 30% number given, the bog should be 450 gallons? The pond is 9×9 and various depths up to 3 feet. Can I plumb into the existing PVC and divert into the bog? I should have been more active in the pond build as I am not even sure what size pump I am currently running which obviously will play a factor. I seem to have good flow. I know you can't design the bog for me but I'd love to share pics if you could give your thoughts.
John, the UV is doing what is supposed to as long as the flow rate is correct. You need maximum exposure to the UV in order for it to work properly. Remember that a UV light will only take care of the free floating algae. The bog should take care of everything else. Yes, a 450 gallon bog will suit your situation perfectly.
If you don’t want to disturb the current state of your new pond, you could always add an additional pump, diverting the water to the bog. For the bog to work correctly, again you need to get the flow right. The water has to flow through the bog and not stagnate. Once you get your bog up and running, be patient. It may take a while for the plants to take root and the beneficial bacteria to colonize.
Once your bog has stabilized, it should remove most of the nutrients from the water, essentially starving the algae left in your pond.
Good luck with your project!
Cheers,
~Jeff
Hi Jeff,
I am about to build a bog filter and your instructions are very clear but I have one question. When one is connecting the pipes what adhesive do you use?
That's it. Many thanks, Brian
You can use PVC cement. It is like rubber cement but it chemically binds the PVC pipes together. The adhesive is usually sold with primer which will help clean the pipe and prepare it before it is cemented together. Good luck with your project.
Cheers!
Hi Jeff, we’ve just reconfigured our pond after it started losing water, so we decided to start from scratch and just created a bog filter. Obviously there is a certain amount of muck from the gravel (we thought we’d washed it well, but maybe not well enough) and we did keep a little of the silt along with as much water as we could from the old pond. How long would you expect it to need to run before the water starts to look clearer – I imagine the plants need a little time to establish.
The water should start to clear up in a matter of weeks. It will take some time for the plants to get established. There are many factors that can contribute to how fast your pond will clear up so its hard to say. It may take as long as a full season. Best of luck to you!
Cheers,
~Jeff
Jeff, should how steep should the sides of my pond be? Should I cover the liner with rocks in all locations, including the bottom?
David
I usually make the walls at a 90 degree angle and make shelfs as you go down deeper. This allows for a variety of plants to be planted at different levels, and also helps keep predators out. As far as covering the liner, that is personal preference. After some time even your black liner will begin to get a coating of algae and debris on it making it look natural. The rocks do act as a sort of armor covering your liner though.
Best of luck to you.
Cheers,
~Jeff
Hi Jeff, Thanks for taking the time to write such A wonderful article on Bogs. I am halfway through completing a large pond system with big waterfall and a bunch of landscaping features in my backyard, and I'm going to incorporate a bog at the middle height pond. I already have a huge gpm pump for the waterfall. My project consists of 3 different "ponds" with different levels of water. First is the 5 foot tall waterfall pond. This flows into the second pond. And this middle pond has an 8 inch drop waterfall that feeds the third lowest level pond). Here's my question: Should I get a smaller pump to send water to the bog, or just divert some from my big pump with a valve to the bog? The "pump house" (an area actually made out of and separated by cinder blocks within the lower pond is gravity fed by water from all three areas thru a series of 1 1/2" pvc buried in river rock from the bottom of each pond). I'm not at all opposed to using more electricity as I just completed a huge solar installation. Since I hate the idea of giving free kWh's of electricity to my power company once a year, I would rather use it. Thanks for your work, Bill
This is completely up to you. Since you have an abundance of electricity, it would be crazy not to use it. iIf I was in your situation I would go with the two pump solution. By adding a smaller pump to your bog, you will have complete control over the flow rate, once the proper pump is in palace.